PRODUCTION

Taste

Bar Boheme sets an opulent new table

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LaBelle Farms duck
Photo: Steve Marcus

When Esther’s Kitchen owner James Trees and his managing partner Keith Bracewell opened contemporary French restaurant Bar Boheme in the Arts District last spring, its menu was straight a la carte. But a funny thing happened on the way to le tableau: People came to Bar Boheme expecting a fancy experience suited to special occasions.

“I didn’t think our pricing was outrageous, but people would come in thinking this is going to be like a fancy, expensive dinner, when in actuality it really wasn’t,” says Sean O’Hara, executive chef. “But James was like, ‘If they want a fancy restaurant, we’ll give them a fancy restaurant.’”

Boheme’s new prix fixe menu is still affordable at $80 per person, with a first, main and dessert course that draw liberally from what Boheme’s kitchen does best. The firsts include a chicken liver pâté with red onion gastrique, sweet onion relish and toasted rye crostini, and a tuna tartare with basil aioli and ratatouille. The mains include an eight-ounce Bavette steak with beef tallow frites, a sautéed ocean trout filet with asparagus, green garlic and trout roe, LaBelle Farms duck in an orange sauce with rhubarb and chicories, and more. And among the dessert options is a terrific Paris-Brest choux pastry with praline cream, caramel and toasted hazelnuts. Wine pairings are available beginning at $55.

If you love Bar Boheme’s bar menu, including its steak frites, seafood tower, soupe a l’oignon and service industry worker-favorite hamburger, rest assured they’re still on the menu and still reasonably priced. Really, the only way Bar Boheme has changed is for the better.

BAR BOHEME 1401 S. Main St., 702-848-6823, barbohemelv.com. Wednesday-Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

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Tags: Food, Dining
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